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The 5 Best Surf Movies of All Time

Timeless surf films that represent the real history, culture and sport of surfing.

Also see: The 5 Best Worst Summer Beach Movies of All Time for Serge Dedina's thoughts on summer flicks that are so bad they're good. 

 

Let’s face it–most surf movies are incredibly boring.  

Surf “porn” with repeated barrels, aerial maneuvers, tropical locales and hipster soundtracks.

That's perfect for groms or big screens at beach eateries and bars, but fail to live up to any basic cinematic story-telling standards.

A few filmmakers have done their best to introduce audiences to the themes that make surfing a truly original sport. These directors, Bruce Brown, Stacy Peralta, John Milius and Jeremy Gosch all made great films first and surfing films second.

All touch on themes rarely examined by everyday surfers and involve some of the sport’s brightest stars, writers, and most iconoclastic and idiosyncratic surfers. If I had to add a sixth film here it would definitely be Sunny Abberton’s fascinating and original Bra Boys.

1. The Endless Summer (1964)

In the early 1960s, pioneer surf filmmaker Bruce Brown set off on a trip around the world with Mike Hynson and Robert August, two young surfers from Southern California on a quest for an “endless” summer. They scored waves in Senegal, roamed across apartheid-era South Africa, rode endless peelers at Cape St. Francis and surfed backwash in Tahiti.

The sense of humor and sympathetic and silent performances of Hynson and August, combined with the deadpan narration of Brown made this a national hit in 1966 and a groundbreaking adventure film. 

Endless Summer has defined surf travel for generations, and still holds up as a timeless narrative on the innocence of surfing and the friendship that still link surfing and surfers around the globe. If you haven’t yet embarked yet on your own Endless Summer, free of surf camps and a calendar, then watch the film and find your dream.

2. Dogtown and Z-Boys (2001)

A decade after clean cut Hyson and August traipsed around the world in mod suits and Ray Bans, a collection of scruffy kids from the wrong side of the tracks in Santa Monica and Venice or Dogtown took the radical Hawaiian vertical surfing style epitomized by Larry Bertleman, Buttons Kaluhiokalani and Mark Liddel and applied it to the waves of Venice, and the streets, banks and pools of Southern California.

Dogtown and Z-Boys is Stacy Perralta's brilliant homage to his youth in which he digs deep and comes up with a stunning deconstruction of the illusion of the Hollywood glitter surrounding the surf and skate culture of Southern California.

Brilliantly written and directed, everything is pitch perfect in this documentary that sheds light on 1970s-era surf and skate culture that until recently was really a lost decade.

As someone who learned to surf and skate in Imperial Beach, a U.S.-Mexico border version of Dogtown during the same era, this movie draws you in and makes you think about the social forces that brings surfers together in a state of joy, and at the same time, as in the case of Jay Adams, spit them out into the street.

The fictional version, The Lords of Dogtown was filmed in Imperial Beach and is an admirable attempt to convey the era, but falls way short of Peralta’s original.

3. Big Wednesday (1978)

I still remember watching this John Milius-directed film when it first came out in at the Vogue Theater in Chula Vista. My grom buddies and I laughed at all the right moments, were in awe of the surfing finale, loved the style and were lucky enough to understand the Changing of the Guard storyline. 

Co-writers Milius and Denny Aaberg were Malibu surfers from the early 60s who in Big Wednesday managed to capture the end of the longboard era, Vietnam, big-wave surfing, professionalism and the essence of surfing and style.

Originally written off by surfers and critics, Big Wednesday ultimately earned the respect it deserves. The classic lines, fight scenes, Tijuana trip, epic draft registration set piece and the surfing all make this a fun and required family surf movie.

Gary Busey’s Leroy “The Masochist” combing his hair with a fish was also epic

The surfing and water cinematography are absolutely top notch. Water stunt doubles included Peter “P.T.” Townend, Bill Hamilton, Bruce Raymond, Jackie Dunn, J Riddle, Ian Cairns and Gerry Lopez playing himself

The group were captured on film by legendary cameramen Dan Merkel, Bud Browne, George Greenough and Greg MacGillivray. Big Wednesday is the Casablanca of surf films: timeless, beautifully conceived and executed classic American cinema.

4. Bustin’ Down the Door (2009)

In the early to mid 70s a small group of feral but extremely talented Australian and South African surfers—Shaun Tomson, Mark Richards, Ian Cairns, Michael Tomson, Peter Townend and Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew, among others, assembled each winter on Oahu’s North Shore to surf the best waves and fight tooth and nail to become the world’s best surfers.

In the process they invented the modern era of professional surfing and managed to disrespect Hawaiian culture. Hawaiian surfers brilliant but more staid surfing epitomized power, style, flow, speed, courage and honor. This brilliant and moving unflinchingly film tells that story–no holds barred.

With the help of an insightful and contemplative Barry “B.K.” Kanaiaupuni (who is the lead storyteller on the Hawaiian side as well as Jeff Hackman and other North Shore stalwarts), Bustin’ Down the Door portrays the compelling and emotional tale of how surfing’s pro pioneers became victims of their own hubris and end up finding their own humility and humanity.

Surfers are generally unable to examine themselves honestly, but watching Rabbit discuss his childhood poverty is stirring. Combined with the observations by Hawaiian surf veterans of this tale, Bustin' Down the Door is great and essential filmmaking. As a grom in the 70s all these guys were my heroes (they still are) and the surfing itself still holds up for its timeless beauty, radicalism, originality and precision.

5. Riding Giants (2004)

Riding Giants, Bustin' Down the Door and Dogtown are about as close to the definitive historical and social texts on surfing as you'll find. In Riding Giants, Stacy Peralta shows what it is like to be in a wild ocean and more importantly it goes deep into two of surfing's legends and heroes--Greg Noll and Laird Hamilton, as well as Maverick’s pioneer Jeff Clark, and Hamilton’s tow partner Dave Kalama (a great surfer in his own right).

The footage is incredible, the personalities, stories and histories are compelling and the film once again benefits from Peralta’s expert direction and production value. If you can find and read William Finnegan's amazing “Playing Doc's Games" from The New Yorker”, after you see this, Bustin Down the Door and Dogtown, then you've hit the surfing trifecta.

Tell us in the comments:

What are your favorite surf movies?

Serge Dedina is executive director of WiLDCOAST, an international conservation team that conserves coastal and marine ecosystems and the author of Wild Sea.

Michelle Mowad (Editor) July 25, 2012 at 01:31 pm
Surf "porn" - that made me laugh so hard. Good analogy Serge.
Sean Malabanan July 25, 2012 at 02:00 pm
C'mon Serge! How could you forget the 80's movie, North Shore. Locals Mike Gillard and Terry Gillard, the Gillard beach house and Chandlers dog was Gillards. That movie put modern surfing mainstream. Getting pounded by Da Hui, very real if you burn any local in Hawaii. Getting pounded by Pipeline, very real if you dare. All the contest scenarios and tons of real pros. Scrub it koook.
Serge Dedina July 25, 2012 at 02:10 pm
Hey Sean:
See my comments in last weeks column about North Shore--which I recommended. I love North Shore and really enjoyed watching it with my sons when they were budding groms (they called Rick Kane the "Kidboy"), and love ribbing Mike about it. I agree with your comments on how it touches all the right notes. But the fact is--it's not a great movie in and of itself, but it would definitely make the top 10 list only because I think it has held up well, and it includes Gerry Lopez, Occy, Laird and "Turtle" the second best surf film character of all time after Garey Busey's Leroy the Masochist.
Serge Dedina July 25, 2012 at 02:15 pm
Another important point about North Shore was that it was produced by William R. Finnegan who also produced Hawaii Five-O at the height of its popularity and who is the father of William Finnegan, a longtime surfer and New Yorker writer who wrote "Playing Doc's Games" which is arguably one of the finest pieces of writing on surfing--ever.
Isla Parida lodge Panama July 25, 2012 at 02:45 pm
"Chasing the lotus"By spider wills and greg weaver with Dan fowlie's Pavones tribute one of my favorite surf movies
Deanne Goodman (Editor) July 25, 2012 at 03:33 pm
Growing up in Encinitas, I know "Loose Change" was a staple to play at house parties and in dive bars. Might just have been a local thing though....
John July 25, 2012 at 06:12 pm
In Gods hands has got to be the best surf movie Shane Dorian is GREAT
Naomi July 26, 2012 at 12:43 am
Point Break... Just sayin :-)
Paul Gallegos July 26, 2012 at 03:26 am
Hal Jepsen's "SuperSession", "5 Summer Stories", "Longboarder", and "Magnaplasma" were all pretty cool in their own way. Got to meet Hal Jepsen when he was showing "Supersession" at Kahuna's Bar and Grill in PB one Tuesday night. He turned off the sound and did the original and drunken narration for the crowd--all 12 of us. It was a Tuesday night.
DG July 26, 2012 at 10:49 am
"5 Summer Stories" is a slam dunk for the top 5 list. Should be required viewing for all groms.
Lance Kuenzi July 26, 2012 at 02:01 pm
Big wednesday is and shall always be my top pick of surf movie greats.
hugh Minetree July 26, 2012 at 02:40 pm
FREE RIDE. During an era that served up surf porn almost exclusively,
it broke new ground by telling an important story in a compelling and cohesive manner. While indirectly repped in your top 5 via Bustin Down the Door, FR should also be included. Bill Delaney wove a wonderful narrative using heroic, archetypal, characters who gave insanely great performances....ground breaking water footage...a fantastic soundtrack and production values. It changed my life.
Ed Teel September 13, 2012 at 02:18 pm
I agree, 5 Summer Stories is the best

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This is a delaying tactic. They are going to try to appease enough of the groups to break up theRead More coalition. The IBCC has given away millions to some of the richest men in San Diego County. Why are the people forced to take a hair cut on the budget crisis. Let the city employees who stood by and did nothing while getting raises as IB was looted. Sincerely, IBMad@madenoughyet.com
Marcus Boyd June 7, 2013 at 11:46 am
Thank you for posting this. Great job to all who were involved with the Alternative Solution to IBRead More Sports Park Privatization Planning Committee. While the above referenced "delaying tactic" is likely true, it will be up to the community's grassroots activism to force the council to a public decision on the issue. Their "delaying tactic" comes with a price in 2014 - when two council seats and the mayors seat is up for grabs. Who's interested?
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Mayor Janney seems anguished at finding a process he can still control ? Probably so he can finishRead More the deal and deliver the goods; per the previous DONE DEAL. He acts like; No matter what process they do, the only decision will be YMCA. 16:08 Janney: "We can appoint our plants on the committee?" Gary Brown: "Oh Yea!" "OH YEA!" _____________________________________ If the YMCA took over ownership of Municipal Property and then went Bankrupt....would tax-payer assets be sold off to the highest bidder via Bankruptcy Proceedings? Maybe the YMCA is going to pass the properties through to another entity that will buy them out when they file for planned future bankruptcy? Hey ...If the YMCA is running the Municipal Pools in Chula Vista and National City now...maybe they'd like to build a pool for Imperial Beach with their own money; since all the Imperial Beach RDA money went for "OTHER PROJECTS"? Is this a classic struggle over who controls the children in the community?
Marcus Boyd June 17, 2013 at 05:41 pm
My daughter made one for me on her laptop... now I see why! Lucky me though, it was one-of-a-kind!
Vanessa Olvera June 18, 2013 at 10:12 am
I contributed to this lack of cards.
Ed Kravitz June 17, 2013 at 01:56 pm
Wow...another flying monkey just flew bye!
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My faith has been restored. Looking outside my kitchen window this a.m. I saw a man walking his dogRead More with a bucket and pick-up grabber. I couldn't believe my eyes. He was cleaning up all of the dog feces along the estuary on Seacoast. I will keep my eyes out for him again so that I can go out and personally thank him for his great volunteer work. What a great IB resident!!
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You could call Pacifica Companies...Maybe Alison Rolfson? You could call your local City CouncilRead More Representative or go to the Council Meeting early on Wednesday evening and fill out a speakers card and post the same question to the City Council. Share with us what you find out! (If Anything?) Tell them you don't care for the way they pick City Attorneys, City Managers or replacement Council Members in closed session while you're at it.
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Melissa Jacobson June 5, 2013 at 08:15 pm
@ john 10 news found expired canned food from December..
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Melissa - I know that. My comment is saying that canned goods keep past the expiration date justRead More fine. It is the processed meats in the cold sections that concern me most, followed by produce.
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I have been here in IB for ten years and maybe shopped at moldies/Wallys a dozen times 9 of thoseRead More were for wine. The first experience at walley was a sale on bad meat for a BBQ and yogurt that was expired the second time was canned goods that were on sale and I was charged full price the third time was a watermelon well at least the mellon was good ;-/ we need a Whole foods or Trader Joes in IB
Erika Lowery June 11, 2013 at 12:23 pm
Is there any update? I see the flyers as I go around town and I worry about her.
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Have you checked Chula Vista AC on Beyer? They pick up dogs in IB that are loose.
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i seen a dog that looked like her in a yard on the corner of elder and 3rd. small house. It might beRead More their dog. but it is worth driving by